Ah, the stories about the beginnings of the many Bahamian islands. Meet the original Eleutherian Adventurers, religious exiles sailing from Bermuda, these folks actually crashed into the reef outside Spanish Wells in 1648. The natives (Arawaks) were pretty wiped out by the Spanish (slaving and good ol’ disease), so the gang set up shop. Typical of many early English settlements, they had fits and starts, but explored, nevertheless. Seeing a nice harbor about halfway down the island, they named this area “Colebrooke Town.” This township makes a credible claim of being the first permanent European settlement, and more importantly, home of the first Republican form of government in the New World!
Today, albeit deep, the harbor is a quiet place. Err, sans the near constant rooster crows day and night. We had planned to stay here for a couple of days, so exploring we went. The harbor has houses on the island side and it connects to Cupid Cay, where the yellow government building and big dock are located.
In the middle is the pretty pink library (est. 1897) and the beach in front of the church where we can land the dinghy. With so much in sight we just had to dinghy to the beach to explore the town. Quick explanation for the landlubbers: the dinghy doesn’t come up onto the land. We can “beach” it, but with the engine, it’d be too heavy to drag back to the water, so we anchor in very shallow water (planning ahead for what the tide’s going to do), climb over the side and wade ashore. Makes the clothing and shoe issue kind of tricky.
Since we got a “retired cruisers” start, i.e. 11am, we asked a few locals sitting on a bench near where we splashed ashore just where we should go for lunch. Ronnie’s, it is! Ronnie’s little dive bar/ pool hall/ humidor and eatery opened in 1957 and serves simple fare at fair prices. Unfortunately, they were out of conch, grouper (out of season), and salmon (uh?). Not a salad in sight! So, easy choice, a cheeseburger and a Philly, please. During quick chats with the friendly folks in the place, we learned that everyone has a nickname. Quincy (real name) the bartender introduced us to Breez the regular, who gave us great tips about exploring the area and even offered to call his friend Buff, the “local Uber,” to drive us around. We needed to stretch our legs so opted to walk, following Breez’ excellent directions, over to the Atlantic side to hopefully see the pink sand beach.
We walked about 2.5 miles round trip. Not a bad walk at all. Up the hill (146 ft climb), past the nice houses, police station (see Daddy, we’re safe!), and an artist decking out a new convenience store.
So, we returned to the boat for showers and early bedtime (are we old or what?) with plans to find the Levy Native Plant Preserve the next day.
Did we mention the roosters? Whew. Those roosters… all blooming day and night! Find the girls willya?
Our Travels 