Two months ago, when we passed this way heading south, we’d planned to anchor at Glass Window (rectangle in the center of the photo) on our way north. Alas, not to be. Gotta keep moving! Put it on the list for the next trip.

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With the weather this nice, it becomes impossible to describe the colors. Maybe a really, really good camera could capture it, but heck, we don’t even own a house. With the wind almost calm, the water smooths out, and the clarity is striking. The blue and turquoise hues are breathtaking, and the variety of shades is astonishing. Throw in the brightness and shadows caused by a partly cloudy (big puffy ones) sky, and one really experiences the grandeur of the “Big Man’s” creation. Just Wow.

What is neat about these pictures are the “dark” water is 15-40 feet deep, the “lighter” water is not… After drinking in the joy of the water (pun intended), it’s time to traverse Current Cut again. We’ve been through this one before when we headed south. Timing is everything. The idea is be moving with the current (tide coming or going?), BUT! not too much. We think we did better this time. We were pushed through with enough current to make 11.5 knots. Last time, it was closer to 13!

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After Current Cut, the cruising is easy again for another hour or so, until our approach to the channel that leads into Russell Island/Spanish Wells. Timing Current Cut put us coming into this next channel at low tide. Unfortunately, these guys were all anchored in the route labeled “Deeper Draft Route” on the charts, so, it’s super slow, serpentine time.

After the “dodge the boats” run, we hung a hard left, between two poles marking the channel, and then another hard left into the longish, but very narrow (especially at LOW tide) “harbor” of Spanish Wells. Who knows if we lightly scraped the bottom as we eased into our (thank the Lord!) face dock for an easy tie-up.

In a way, we are retracing our steps on the way home; next step Orange Creek, as we really wanted to stop in and see Margaret and her daughter Shari. Wanted to, notice the past tense. Upon arrival, we attempted to start the generator (as usual) to power our crane (davit) to put the dinghy in the water. The gen started and then stopped. Four hours of changing fuel filters (there are two), cleaning injectors (three), and trying various other things were not successful. No visiting allowed – we can’t even get the dinghy in the water. Our captain exclaimed (among other things), “We need a diesel guy.” Given our path was to include Spanish Wells to take on fuel (remember? big fishing fleet, therefore, lots of fuel), we called ahead to inquire about diesel service. Yep, come on. Great! We are on the way!

Captain plotted two days of travel. All sightseeing is suspended until we get there. Oh, and we have to pretend like we are defrosting the main freezer (cause it can’t run w/o the gen) and move everything into the smaller cooler/freezer on the flybridge. (Thankfully, we’ve been eating for months, so it’s not as full as when we came over.) All planned stops will be saved for “next time,” as the Mare’s gotta get to the barn!

Given the wind and swell present in Orange Creek the night before, the SaltyMare swayed quite a bit through the night. Unbeknownst to us, during that process, she managed to get free of one side of the anchor bridle by losing a shackle bolt. (For our non-boating followers, I kid you not, it’s called a bridle.) Uh-oh. We both peer down into the clear, now calm water. Hey, is that it right there?

So, speaking of swimming, Todd goes in to hopefully retrieve it.

No luck. That bolt has been sacrificed to the sea. Dry off the captain, rinse the gear, and get moving. Got a 12-hour cruise ahead of us, during which the captain/chief mechanic will replace rusted locking wires on all the shackle bolts. My man!

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Fortunately, the weather was fantastic for cruising – light and variable easterly winds, calm seas. The six miles we were “in the open” crossing from Cat Island to Eleuthera were smooth.

Along the way, we passed a couple of cruise ships. They’re BIG.

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You know what happens when we’re in deep water. That’s right, time for the next installment of “Todd vs. Fish.”

Fish on! Again.

Captain shouted, “It’s a big one, Mahi”! Unfortunately, trying to photograph an unpredictably jumping fish while gathering supplies is darn near impossible.

After one final struggle, Tada! The streak is broken! 42″ and (guessing) more than 15 pounds! Good one!

Every cloud does have a silver lining. This one ends with 6 pounds of Mahi filets (NOT, possibly toxic reef fish!) in the freezer, fresh fish tacos for dinner, and a fantastic sunset!

The “Shoe Leather Express” comes with many benefits, exercise being the main one. But another, one might suggest equal, benefit is that it forces you to “slow down.” Sure guys, but you’re in the islands for goodness sakes. Regardless, moving through the world at 3-4 miles an hour, instead of 50-70mph in a car, allows plenty of time to take notice of things around you. Here’s a small, random collection of a few of those “things.”

Hog Cay, Ragged Islands

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Long Island

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Cat Island

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This next one may not be for everyone, but… this is Duke’s friend, “Nancy,” who maintains her web nearby. Nancy is a Golden Silk Orb Weaver, otherwise known as a Banana Spider.

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And, of course, we’ve spent plenty of time simply watching the world go by. Thank you all for the thoughts, prayers, and well wishes. Today, we are on the move again!

The clinic is in Smith Bay, not far from H&W Shopping Center near the Bluff, so we took the opportunity to go see Betty (from Feb 22 post, “Hospitality on the Bluff”). We just missed Clifton, and Julia is in Nassau. Hopefully, we’ll catch them next time around.

On the return drive to New Bight, we passed Heroes Park, established in 2018 to honor sons and daughters of Cat Island. Among the first honorees is Academy Award winner Sir Sidney Poitier, who was raised on Cat Island. Unfortunately, the plaques stop with 2019. It appears Covid interrupted the placement of the yearly recognition.

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Back in New Bight, other heroes emerged. Duke’s Conch Stand is part of a small, humble, and incredibly friendly group of businesses right on the beach. We got talking to Cordell Hunter, matriarch of one of the stands, and as soon as she learned of the diagnosis, she suggested coconut water, which was also recommended by the doctor. Unfortunately, the canned version contains preservatives and plenty of sugar. “No, not that stuff,” replied Cordell, “fresh coconut water, from green coconuts.” So, true to her word, when we came ashore the next afternoon, she signaled Duke, who left and quickly returned with several fresh, green coconuts, from which Cordell harvested the coconut water and we scraped the jelly, both known for their medicinal benefits. See, when they are still green, the “meat” has not fully set and “dried” out. Instead, it’s a wonderfully soft, “jelly-like” substance Todd thinks is yummy!

Cordell’s grandson, Arginal, however, who you may remember from previous posts about Cat Island (Feb/Mar), declared he is not a fan of the fresh coconut.

So, as a distraction, Susie showed him how to use the camera.

In return, he helped dispose of the trash by politely leading Susie along a path to toss the coconut shells into the brush. Along the way, he gallantly declared, “Follow me. I’ve been here longer. I know the way.” He is a remarkable seven-year-old.

They may never receive honorary plaques, but once again, on Cat Island, there are definitely heroes – make that, angels – among us. Thank you, Duke, Cordell, and Arginal, for your kindness. You are heroes in our book!

After anchoring in Old Bight, we called the resort to ensure they were serving dinner – Yes, indeed. Fish? Perfect. A quick dinghy ride to a beautiful beach entrance to, honestly, the nicest little restaurant we’ve enjoyed in the Bahamas, by far. The ambiance is soothing (Relax) and bright (Joyful) at the same time. The bougainvillea painted on the wall by Mr. Rolle’s nephew is just outstanding, and both Beverly and Mr. Rolle made us feel warmly welcome. The wonderful dinner was a “fixed” menu, starting with split pea soup, an amazing salad, and of course, as promised, fried grouper, mashed spuds, and fresh vegetables. All beautifully presented and sized appropriately. Topped off by freshly baked rum cake with homemade whipped topping! A truly scrumptious meal.

With satisfied tummies and souls, we returned to the boat quite happy we had stopped in Old Bight.

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The next morning, we checked the map and saw that Alnor’s Bake Shop (run by Al & Eleanor – get it, “Alnor’s”) is only 1½ miles from the Rollezz Resort! We stopped at Alnor’s in February when we had the rental car, meeting Al, and his wonderful “flour cakes” (yum!). We thought, “If we are this close, let’s go!” As soon as we got to the beach, it started to drizle (great timing, once again, Olsens), so we spent a few minutes back inside the restaurant chatting with Beverly and waiting for the rain to pass.

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The walk was a typical “off the beaten path” sort of thing. Down along the beach road and then shooting inland to the main road. You can see the roiled sky as the impending front makes its presence known.

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Along the way, what do we find? A church, of course! A special one. We haven’t mentioned it, but the Bahamas (England at the time) emancipated its slaves in 1834 (about fifty years before the U.S. in 1863). The Governor of the Islands at the time was an Irishman named Blaney Balfour. His widow commissioned this church built in 1884! The government took notice in 2012 with a re-dedication and designation on the National Register. The interior is simple and warm.

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Walking along past the local gasoline/service station, we found another church. A little research revealed what we suspected. The building to the left was built by “good ol” Father Jerome! That’s right, the same cool dude who built the Hermitage across the bay on top of Como Hill (Mt. Alvernia). This one has a unique (for the time -1945) crucifix, as Jesus is fairly dark-skinned (as are the Palestinians, Jews and Arabs). Here’s a link for those interested: St Francis of Assisi Church.

Due to the stern sign posted by the Catholic Church, and being more obedient than the area’s goats, we did not enter either building.

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After exploring and getting still-warm bread and treats at Alnor’s (this time we met Eleanor), we hoofed it back to the boat. With the front coming, that means strong winds, so we moved 4 nautical miles over to New Bight for better protection. On the way, we saw this poor sight. Sorry, no words…

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We settled into the anchorage in the late afternoon with just enough time to splash the dinghy, go say hello to Duke, and return to the boat to tuck in for a very pretty sunset.