Gunkholing, right? Okay let’s go! Oh first, let’s backtrack a bit to pick up some fuel. Sure, got the perfect place. That’s right, one a bit off the beaten track.

---

---

After several calls to various marinas with fuel, we decided to mosey up Kilkenny Creek to check out Killkenny Marina, a humble but friendly spot. Boaters might notice, no cleats… just 2 x 6s sticking up. Family run since the 70’s with a handy boat-launching service.

---

After taking on fuel and water, we bid the gang adieu and went a short 10 nm back south (with the traffic flow this time) to anchor behind a barrier island called Saint Catherines. The island is both privately owned and a National Historic Landmark. Huh?

---

Thanksgiving Day on Walburg Creek dawned cool and cloudy but beautiful. After many wonderful family phone calls, Todd managed to rig a way on our little gas grill on the bridge to smoke the tiniest turkey breast ever – think of a child’s football! But delightful!

---

In this section of Georgia, it was quite grey for most of the several days around the holiday. On Black Friday, while others hit the malls, we headed south on the ICW toward a wiggly river called Frederica. Given the coolness and overcast skies, it seemed most of the flying folks were hunkered down. Nearly every marker had occupants.

---

Then the day that started a bit dreary got worse. Yep, actual thick fog! So, thick, Susie had to break out the manual for our VHF so we could sound the proper 5-second blast every 120 seconds!

---

---

It was fun to pretend we were someplace exotic, like south of England! It lasted about 40 minutes, and as we came out of it, we passed a river that Captain Todd had researched and, on a lark, he says, “You want to go up that one?” Sure! So, we slam on the brakes! Ha! More like do a U-turn and turn again off the beaten path and up the South Altamaha River. Heck, why not? We’ll hit the Frederica River tomorrow. “Honey, just what’s up this river?” Well…. “I think there’s a small marina up there?”

We get docked up in the slack tide – wait, “Captain, did you plan this arrival time?” “Nope,” was the sheepish response.

First to visit us was more FOG rolling down the river, followed by large chunks of water hyacinths. Odd.

Well, we’re here. Might as well hit the restaurant….Mudcat Charlies! Actually, it’s only about a 10-minute detour off of I-95 (by car) and has a reputation for good eats. Fare sampled by this couple was yyyuuummmm and filling!

---

It was a fun, remote stop for a night, but not really gunkholing. So, back down the river to the ICW and moving on to the Frederica River and its Fort! As we once again, get off the ICW, we are struck by the interesting “terrain” – “islands” created by 100’s, if not 1000’s, of acres of marsh grass.

---

Fort Frederica National Monument

Finally! When we passed this way last year, we simply anchored nearby for one night before pushing on. We vowed to return with enough time to take in the fort. So glad we did.

Although, on second thought,

---

---

We had a great time on the Frederica River, but the time came to move on and leave the fort in our wake, wiggle down the rest of this wonderful river and head to Jekyll Island.

---

Picture of a bridge? Well, it’s big, like really, big. Clearance for us boats is 185 feet! Port Brunswick needs it, as it’s one of the major ports on the east coast, second only to NYC/NJ.

Next stop? More gunkholing? Sure! This is fun stuff! And then… we hit Jekyll Island! Whoa! More on that to come.

We’ve been trying since April to secure a reservation in Florida for the month of December. Many, many phone calls, and numerous replies of, “Call back closer to the date,” “We’ll try,” etc. Last week we got great news, “Show up December 6, and you can stay a month.” Success! Now we have a safe place for the ‘Mare while we participate in family Christmas events before returning to the Bahamas.

Last year, we were in the mad dash of snowbird cruisers rushing south to either winter in Florida or head for the Bahamas. The pace, combined with the inherent challenges of cruising in Georgia – the tidal swings, shoaling, shallow areas, and the less than cruiser-friendly legislation – left us unenthusiastic about a repeat. Sigh. Can’t we just go offshore and skip Georgia? Nope. Heck, Bull Creek is a great stop, maybe there is something similar in Georgia? We have plenty of time to take our time. Let’s embrace it and explore!

We began with a 3.5-hour cruise from Bull Creek to Isle of Hope Marina, south of Savannah.

---

---

After we availed ourselves of the marina’s loaner car to hit Wally World in Savannah for some warmer, fuzzy jackets, the sunny afternoon warmed things up enough for us to enjoy an afternoon stroll on Isle of Hope…without the jackets.

---

Since we have the luxury of time, it’s time for some gunkholing, SaltyMare style. The term gunkholing originated from small boats exploring out of the way coves and anchoring in the “gunk,” or mud. Cruisers now use the term more generically to mean seeking out the serenity of isolated anchorages over the crowds of larger, modern marinas and popular bays. A shallow draft vessel allows for going further up and into the gunkholes. Well, SaltyMare has a 6′ draft, so we can’t go as far up the rivers and creeks, but we can get off the AICW (think I-95) to explore the rivers.

---

---

First side trip, the Medway River

Several cruisers have recommended we detour eight miles up the Medway River to Midway, Georgia, site of the once thriving port town of Sunbury. Founded in 1758, the coastal town played an important role fighting the British in Georgia during the American Revolution, and three signers of the Declaration of Independence have ties to the now-a-ghost town of Sunbury.

---

Finally – Sunbury Crab Company!

The area history is interesting, but the real reason cruisers make the trek is to eat at Sunbury Crab Company, established more than 20 years ago and featured in many magazines, including most recently, Southern Living Magazine as, “One of the South’s Best Seafood Shacks.” The whole family has embraced the endeavor. Husband Barney caught the dock lines while Elaine handled the warm welcome in the restaurant, and their grown sons did the cooking! Friendly, simple but surprisingly good fare make it a great stop.

---

Fort Morris State Historic Site

Since we liked the vibe, we decided to stay for a few nights to explore the area (umm…and, truthfully, to dine at the restaurant again). On Sunday, needing to work off some of that food, we planned a walk to the Fort Morris State Historic Site, just over a mile from the marina. We anxiously eyed the thermometer, vainly rooting for it to top 50 degrees. Alas, didn’t happen, but shortly after noon, we layered up and headed out anyway. Oh lord, look at those outfits!

One of our favorite tales from the fort’s history took place in November 1778, when one Colonel John McIntosh commanded the garrison. At the time, there were fewer than 200 men, mostly actual Continental troops, but a bunch of locals also. The British, led by Colonel L.V. Fuser, cruise up the river to land 500 ground troops supported by armed ships. Fuser makes his formal demands – the immediate surrender of the fort – to which our man McIntosh, in true American spirit responds, “Come and Take it!” you bunch of %$#@ Okay, Todd ad-libbed that last part, thinking history surely left it out. Anyway, what do the English do? That’s right, they leave! Unfortunately, the story doesn’t end there though. A little more than a month later, the British returned with even more guys and wiped the place clean. History has given Colonel McIntosh props for standing strong, and Todd gave him a sailor’s mouth!

Back to the present day, after several hours of exploring the museum, the earthworks, the displays, and the nature trails, the park ranger, Danielle, kindly offered us a lift back to the marina.

---

---

This morning, we cruised the eight miles back to the AICW and then backtracked north a bit for a short jaunt up Kilkenny Creek to check it out and what the heck, take on fuel. After which we cruised back just a bit south. We made very little forward progress, but we found a lovely spot to anchor for the upcoming holiday. Wishing you all a Happy Thanksgiving!

We left Beaufort, SC, on November 13 for a four-hour cruise to Bull Creek (near Daufuskie), the lovely spot where we spent our very first night at anchor way back in October last year. It was as peaceful and beautiful as we remembered. So much so, that this year we decided to relax and stay awhile – four nights, in fact.

---

---

After oohing and aahing at the sunrise, it was time to settle down with a cup of coffee (or tea) for the rest of the morning show put on by the dolphins and birds. Apparently, the fishing is great on Bull Creek! A variety of birds would follow around after the hunting dolphins.

Did you spot the snippet of a dolphin in each of the above photos? Capturing them is tricky, since they don’t exactly announce when they’re coming to the surface. Ha! They were so abundant in the creek though, that with patience, we even got a few on video:

---

What a difference a year makes. Last year on Bull Creek, we had to close up the boat to keep the no-see-ums out. This year those blood-sucking pests apparently, and thankfully, froze their tiny wings off. 🙂 We awoke to a bug-free but chilly 41 degrees and had to install the rear enclosure for warmth. (Dolphins don’t appear to care – water still in the 60’s.)

The next morning, while enjoying coffee-time on the now warmer aft deck, we looked up to a strange site across the marsh grass.

---

It’s the calmness here that is so intoxicating; beauty all around and just the sounds of the natural world. Seems like time is standing still. Oh well, let’s get the noisy dinghy down and explore! Maybe figure out where that big barge came from?

Our brisk sunny trek “up the creek” revealed more low country beauty, a couple of secluded homes, and a dock or two, but where that big barge came from is still a mystery.

---

---

Safe travels, Steve and Karen. Enjoy the Journey!

---

…then we weighed anchor and bade farewell to Bull Creek. After all, if we’re going to make it to our reservation in Florida, we do have to get moving.

I’m sure we will visit Bull Creek again in the future, but this year’s next stop is Isle of Hope Marina in Savannah, GA.

Everyone knows THAT’s not possible. Whether your home is on the water or terra firma, it requires upkeep. On a boat, it’s not the number of chores, it’s the complexity that’ll toss a monkey wrench into things. In this case, “Appliance Swap-out Time!” Susie was super excited, like Ralph the Saint Bernard on Chewy’s Peanut Butter Box commercial.

We’re going with pictures for this tale.

Part I – the Washer

But first, we needed to get the old machine (did I mention, heavy) out of the boat before we could bring the replacement in. Clearly, we needed some muscle. Not like we don’t have three sons, or something. I’m sure they’d all pitch in if they lived nearby. In this case, fortunately for them, they don’t. 😉 (Love you, guys. Just busting your chops.) For some reason, Susie thought College Hunks Hauling Junk would be a good plan. Hmmm, wonder why? At any rate, we ended up with a couple of nice fellas from a local moving company.

---

Part II – the Refrigerator

Bringing in the new one revealed a whoopsie! When Todd verified the needed opening, the “as built dimensions” on the fridge were too big for the hole! Surely there is enough “slop” in the hole? Nope! After checking with a fellow woodworking friend for confidence, in dove our resident woodworker!

Shout out to dock mates for their assistance – Kevin from Destination Unknown for slithering way up in that cabinet when the washer connections insisted on leaking and Terry from Finish Grade for helping Todd muscle the new refrigerator into the opening! Who needs Thor when you’ve got willing friends?

---

Speaking of friends, November 1 has become something of an insurance-mandated “shotgun start” for cruisers. It’s the technical end of hurricane season and the first day most can venture below Cumberland Island, Georgia. You should have seen the boats heading out. We were delayed by Susie’s new spectacles (ha!), but for plenty of others, it was time to go south!

---

With the chores sorted out, we can get back to what we enjoy about cruising – life on the water.

---

We finally bid farewell to Lady’s Island Marina yesterday. Today, as we sit anchored in a totally idyllic spot creating this post about our time in Beaufort, I am pleased to report we did not forget how to anchor! Ha.

After being chased up the coast by Hurricane Ian, we spent October enjoying South Carolina and getting some chores done on the boat (not to mention Susie got glasses – welcome to a new decade). Following some delays that were out of our control, what happened when it was time to depart? Yep. Hurricane Nicole! Really?

---

So, what have we been doing between the stormy bookends of Ian and Nicole? Well, since we’ve been remiss in posting, we’ll split this long month into two entries. For this post, let’s highlight the fun stuff. As the weather shifted back and forth between warm and cool, we went ‘xploring in the area!

Chapel of Ease ruins, Saint Helena Island, SC

During the Colonial period, “chapels of ease” were constructed by planters out on the islands as houses of worship because their plantations were located so far from the town churches. This one was built around 1740 and served the island parishioners until it was heavily damaged in a forest fire in 1886.

---

Fort Fremont, Saint Helena Island, SC

At the turn of the 20th century, Port Royal Naval Station was built off the deepest natural harbor on the east coast. They built the only dry dock in the southeast big enough to repair the largest of Navy ships, the battleships. Important right? Well, across the bay, Fort Fremont was constructed in 1898 to protect this important facility. Super important at the time, but political winds changed, and it was pretty much shut down by 1906 as Charleston Harbor got dredged to become the hub.

---

Hunting Island State Park, SC

Hunting Island State Park – that’s right, it was a real hunting spot! Nowadays, it attracts more than a million visitors a year for its five miles of pristine beach. Prime pickings for shells and sharks’ teeth and a cool lighthouse!

---

Good times!

---

More about this stay later, for today, we begin our journey back south. Gotta scoot! Hope we remember how to anchor! Hahahaha!