First, family, then off to the old city!

Spending extra time on Jekyll meant we had to skip our next planned anchorage, Cumberland Island. We’ll catch that one – and hopefully the wild ponies – in the spring. For now, though, it was on to Amelia Island for a long-awaited visit with family.

Little Cumberland Island Light



Early out of Jekyll on a somewhat grey, but otherwise pleasant morning, 13 nm cruise south on the ICW…no subs at King’s Bay…but we did pass this interesting structure? Charts would indicate something, but let’s move on.

Don’t know exactly what it is, but there’s surely a bird’s eye view

After being delayed by not one, but two, hurricanes (Ian and Nicole), we finally made it to Amelia Island!

And on to our dock at Fernandina Beach Marina.

Sunset? What sunset? Umm, Mr. Cruise ship Captain, just when are you leaving?? We’ve been told there’s a nice sunset over there.

After squeezing in between those two big Cats (trust us, it’s tighter than it looks!) and no sunset to be had, we were still excited to have arrived and to be expecting special guests. So, what’s first? You guessed it. A thorough wash of the boat to de-poop.

Apparently, cleanliness leads to happiness!

In the realm of “that’s odd,” this large, prehistoric-looking beetle (?) crawled up out of Murphy (our “never-kink” but Good Lord, it aways does – hose).

Just what is it??


But we digress. Back to the tale of the day. The cruise ship did depart the day after we arrived, and there was, as promised, a lovely sunset over there.


Just as we wrapped up the long day of boat chores, our ears picked up the sound of a marching band. A Christmas parade?! Let’s go! So, we threw on dry clothes and sprint-walked into town, where we enjoyed a whimsical parade. First time we’ve seen a Christmas parade that included pirate ships and cannon fire. Cool! Sure wish we’d grabbed a camera or a phone. Oh, well. You’ll have to take our word for it. It was fun. More Hallmark Movie moments. Ha!

Now with the boat all clean and sparkly, and the owners worn and weary, we hit the hay. In the wee hours, the first mate got up for a drink of water, only to be startled by a large heron perched on the bow rail. (The photo isn’t great – taken at 0100, without glasses, through the pilothouse screens – but he’s out there, just waiting to make a poopy mess. Which… he did, for two subsequent nights.)

Really, buddy? Have mercy.

Time with family is always relished, and wandering around downtown Amelia Island with Mike and Jackie was just that, fun! A few shops, a distillery, and great company. Siblings should seriously spend time together more often! I know. I know. Our lives have taken us to different places. Guess that just makes the together times that much sweeter. (We missed you, Shel!)


After enjoying the day together – eat, drink, and be merry! (with pizza & football thrown in), we settled in for our last night on Amelia Island.

For some reason Mike & Jackie declined our “offer” to return to toss off lines at 0700. Ha! 😉


Break of dawn start due to slack tide and getting out from between those Cats led us to Kingsley Creek Railroad Bridge at about 0830…. to find it….

Closed! All systems STOP

No signs, no notice, no bridge operator for this “supposed” to be open short bridge! Hail to VHF Bridge Channel. Call to the nearby marina, no knowledge. Radio to other now stuck boats behind us, nada, nothing. About 45 minutes later the Coast Guard announces on the VHF that it would be closed until NOON! What? Oh well, drop the anchor, shut down the engine and relax… while planning a different destination anchorage.

A little past noon, we were on our way. Not much to report, just more beautiful lowlands of Georgia. We are on a mission to get to Saint Augustine! In the late afternoon, we anchored just off the St. Johns River as it goes through Jacksonville. Time to watch the world go by.


Tuesday morning, again up and at ’em at the break of dawn – we gotta get to the oldest city in the country for our month-long holiday dockage (been planning it since April). Let’s go! We slipped out at first light.


South of Jacksonville, the ICW really earns its name, “the Ditch,” but Christmas spirit was alive on the docks!


Oh, and this guy. Clearly a golfer to the core – check out that topiary!

Getting to St. Augustine means back through the beautiful Bridge of Lions. This time we are continuing a bit south past St. Augustine city proper and then making a sharp right to come back up the San Sebastian River to sneak up on the “backside” of the old city. Tucking into our December home port was a very tight fit, but we handled it after a brief stop to wait for full slack.


Now, a month of more wondrous family visits and Christmas events. We are truly blessed.

Jekyll and hide

Tybee Island, next to Savannah in the north, and Amelia Island down at the bottom of Georgia (actually in Florida), along with St Simons Island in the middle, get most of the press and tourism for the coast of Georgia. But lying south of St Simons is an island that once was the playground of some of the wealthiest folks in America. They owned the whole wonderful island and developed it during the turn of the 20th century, right up until the late 1940s. During this time, boy did they take care of it! It was so exclusive, they only allotted for 50 building lots, and just 16 actually got “cottages” built. Since 1947, the state of Georgia has owned the island, and after years of neglect, the state finally realized the unspoiled gem they had acquired. Today, it’s basically a state park that people live in! The grounds of the historical district built by the uber-rich are just breathtaking, and someone wisely figured out bikes and golf cars were less impactful than cars and trucks. Interestingly, the island/state park is self-supporting, as it gets NO funds from the state.

Jekyll Island Marina wisely has a passel of bikes and even a couple of golf cars free for use by its guests! We used both but had the most fun on the bikes!


Driftwood Beach

On our first day, sensing a possible rainstorm, we used the golf car to zip to the northeast coast of the island to take in the notable Driftwood Beach – maybe a half mile or more of what looks like a forest that has been turned into driftwood. Whole trees!

Sometimes we make numerous attempts to get shots worth saving, which leaves us with comical outtakes…


Quintessential holiday magic

After grabbing a quick bite to eat and enjoying an absolutely spectacular sunset,

we used the “ol’ shoe leather express” to take a very pleasant stroll through the holiday light display in the Historic District. Just like a Hallmark movie! (Susie even vamped it up. Ha!) It’s hard to describe the massive live oaks, they are spectacular!


Playing tourists

The next day was warmer, and we just had to try the bicycles! Heck, ashamedly, it’s been years since either of us has ridden, but with nerves of steel we set out…and discovered it’s true what they say, “It’s like riding a bike!” Oh, wait. it is riding a bike. Well, we even managed to pass and operate the camera with one hand while riding! TaaaaDaaaa!

Lot of work, lot of fun. Break time?

We did do a lot of pedaling.

Earned a treat, right? 🙂

And then, we reached somewhat of a proverbial fork in the road:

Suitably refreshed, of course, we pedaled over to Faith Chapel. Built in 1904, the non-denominational chapel is fitted with gargoyles to ward off evil spirits and contains an original Tiffany stained glass window (lower right) that was installed in 1921 in memory of Frederick Bourne, President of the Singer Sewing Machine Company and the Jekyll Island Club. They get the color variety by stacking and carving the glass. Just beautiful!

After the chapel, we perused the little museum to learn some history of the island before and after the rich folks got it.

After which, to take a break from pedaling, we loaded onto a tram for a guided tour of the Historic District and the Millionaires Row of “cottages”…. you know…. 5 to 10 thousand square foot “cottages”….

After soaking up some local knowledge, we disembarked the tram, and jumped on the bikes to race back to the boat for sunset watch.

Fantastic sunset merged with a large, interesting cloudbank right on the horizon

So much fun, we stayed a couple more days! Which means? Another day, another bicycle adventure.

Here we go again. Man, she’s flying! (and giggling)

And we then had a full day of Christmas shopping, Jekyll Island style!

Top Secret Mission (I know something you don’t know)

Who knew biking could be such fun? The folks that put in miles and miles of bike paths on Jekyll, that’s who. Not sure any part of the island is NOT accessible by bike. Just an amazing place, since most of it is shaded by the magnificent Live Oaks, and the sunsets are stunning!

Just sell the boat and stay? Nah. Time to move on and see more of the wonderful world. We’ll be back…. after we rest our legs! Ha!

A delicate matter

Okay. Okay, it’s bird guano…

A few posts back, we mentioned how fun it was to get pictures of the seagulls tagging along with us. After all, two years into this adventure, we’d never really been followed by the gulls. They typically ignore us in search of better pickin’s elsewhere.

Look at all the gulls, Hon. Aren’t they pretty? Oh, silly me.

The birds usually harass the fishing boats, like this guy. After all, he’s bound to have tasty bits around, like fish guts, shrimp, and crab parts. Yum.

Dinner!

Well, the bird-following situation has gone from “aww, how cute” to “NO, please go away.”

When we went up the river to Two Way Fish Camp Marina near Brunswick, we were shocked at the condition of the docks and the boats. (Insert portent of things to come.) The dockmaster said they’ve never seen so many gulls. We spent only one night, and by morning, our bimini top, and much of the boat, was seriously plastered with – you guessed it – poop.

This dock is actually not bad, compared to the one over there next to SaltyMare, which Todd tried to spray down just so we could get on and off the boat.

When we left the South Altahama River to anchor on the Frederica River, thunderstorms were forecast to hit the next day. We happily broke out the stepladder, boat soap and long-handled brushes to go out on the pilothouse roof to “prewash” the disgusting bimini (and the decks after the poop we’d washed off the roof ran down the boat), then sat back to await the storms for a really good rinse. Bring on the deluge!

We waited.

And waited.

Alas, not to be. All we got was about 90-seconds of very gentle sprinkles.

This long, odd formation of storm clouds ended in rain, though – w-a-a-y over there.

Then we got to Jekyll Harbor Marina, only to be visited not only by seagulls and loons, but crows. Lots and LOTS of crows.

Passing the dock at Jekyll Harbor Marina, the Lady Raven. Appropriate name, don’t you think? I mean, look at the rigging, totally lined with pooping birds!

So, should the SaltyMare pass through your town sporting a ridiculous amount of ick, please don’t judge. After all, (sigh), Poop Happens!