For those who don’t know that one, it’s a children’s song that will totally get stuck in your head. Go ahead, Google it if you dare.
As you’ve guessed, this post will feature some finned, toothy ocean creatures.
We were safely moored at Cambridge Cay shortly after 12. Opting not to waste a lovely afternoon on chores, we had a bite to eat, dropped the dinghies into the water, grabbed the snorkel gear and headed off to find the Coral Garden located on the southeastern side of the island.
It took a few attempts to find it. Charts reference the approximate location, but this particular Coral Garden is after all under the water and away from the shoreline. It’s not like there’s a sign poking up stating, “Coral Garden ↓.” Ha!
But locate it we did, and it was a lovely garden.
The reviews from years past mentioned a large field of Elkhorn Coral. We didn’t find that, but what we found was pretty.
We cruised around a bit and hit a beach for some combing but didn’t come up with anything. Not even something we wanted to take… but couldn’t because it’s the park, which is a “no take” zone! Ha! So, we headed home…
SaltyMare (foreground) and Finish Grade in the mooring field
While on the swim platform rinsing the gear, we received some curious visitors. These guys are Bull Sharks.
Gear stowed, we showered and settled in for sunset watch, this time with sharks. Cool!
Susie in her favorite muumuuAnd Todd wishing he had a kaftan. Ha!Watched the sharks below
Been awhile since we put out our underwater light, this seemed like a perfect opportunity.
The sharks circleda barracuda that hung in the shadows suddenly came throughThis guyFinally tried to bump the light
Much to our surprise, there weren’t many fish…. Gee, wonder why. About five Bull Sharks and a big ‘cuda.
Like we said, Mama Shark Shark Shark Shark. Papa Shark Shark Shark Shark. Pleasant dreams, everyone.
The Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park is a popular park, which means lots of visitors. Most common mode of transportation? Seems to be really big boats, for this is the land of the mega-yachts and charter boats. Shroud Cay was popular, with a dozen or so vessels less than 65′ on the mooring balls. Then you move out to the medium-sized (think 85-footers), and further out, the BIG boys…
Here are a few from Shroud Cay:
Feisty Lady and her toys85-ft UncorkedThe sturdy NSN (length Big)187-ft LibertyThis one decided to anchor 50 yards from the SaltyMare and start unloading toys. The ‘Mare’s pretty, we know, but come on. Just kidding. They didn’t even stay the night, headed out before sunset.
With a few windy days in the forecast, we decided to follow some great guidance from Barry and Robin on Crossroads and head all the way down to the other (southern) end of the park. On Wednesday the 29th, we took off in beautiful weather and motored through the boat traffic.
Some cruisers were fastSome were slowSome were prettyAnd, unfortunately, some were just plain rude
As we were cruising along watching the others, one boat in particular caught our attention. Is that a fellow Selene in the distance?
Grab the binoculars. I’m pretty sure that’s a Selene. We studied it as it drew nearer.
Yes, it sure was a Selene. That’s Greg & Glenda on Paradigm Shift! We were just reaching for the VHF when Greg hailed us, having spotted SaltyMare on AIS.
We met Greg & Glenda in Georgetown last year and last saw them in Virginia in September when we met for lunch with Barry & Robin. Now, we were literally two ships passing in the night, starboard to starboard. (Okay, so it was broad daylight, but you get the idea). After exchanging greetings and a brief catch-up conversation via radio, we all carried on our separate courses. Hope to catch you in the summer, Greg & Glenda. Travel safely!
About that Bell
From the northern corner of the park, we moved all the way down to the southern end and snuggled into a little mooring field off Cambridge Cay (aka Little Bell Island). Little Bell is right next to Bell Island, and one of the ways to enter the area is through a very tight gap.
Remember the numbers are depth in meters (I know, handy isn’t it). In this case, the water was there.
The issue was the narrow gap between the rocky point and the very shallow… sand? Rocky sand? (the tan and white areas)
Hey, lots of others have done it; we can too!
As an interesting aside, Bell is another private island. It was purchased for 100mil in 2009 by the Agha Khan. Hence, it’s called an “island” not a “cay.” Apparently, if you buy it, you can call it what you want.
The private Bell IslandNice beach!
Now back to that pinch point at the north end of Bell Island that we needed to navigate through:
As shown on the chart, shallow sandbar to port. Rocks to starboard. Slow down and steady as she goes. Yeah. Miss those pretty rocks, please. Gulp. Now full speed ahead. Outta there!And back to the lovely deep blue water. Whew.
There is definitely a difference between doing it and watching it be done. One’s perspective changes:
We slowed down to photograph Finish Grade coming through the pinch point, which somehow looked roomier from this vantage point than it did from our flybridge. Ha!
We planned to spend a few days on Cambridge Cay and couldn’t wait to venture out. Look at those pretty beaches, sandbars, and rocky islands just begging to be explored!
Photos from those adventures are coming, but to wrap up this post, we’re going with an amusing bit of randomness.
While we were cruising, Susie had some laundry drying on the rails. Upon arrival we discovered the wind played Ring Toss with one of the muumuu shoulder straps and won!
After a special birthday crescendo like that, we all had to take a break…
Nah… we’ve been playing hard, and the upcoming area doesn’t have cell service, so it’s been quiet on the posting side.
So, let’s catch you up on what we’ve being up to. Given the nice weather forecast, we decided to go to the park! First stop, Shroud Cay.
To the SaltyMare crew, Shroud Cay is notorious. Last year it was the scene of about an hour of “not fun” before we gave up and headed further south. Check the annals, it was the weather’s fault, not Shroud’s so, what the heck, let’s try Take Two!
With the weather cooperating we got to explore one of the many marvels of the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.
Without further ado, into the park we go!
You can see on the chart the green dotted lines that make up this corner of the Land and Sea Park. The orange-gold line represents our dinghy trip into and through the interior of the island. We went literally “as far as our horses (dinghies) would go!”
For those curious, the center of the island is “marsh” that floods in and out with the tide, but not deep enough for passage.
So, into the northern creek we went!
We had a pleasant, leisurely cruise through the mangroves (3 mph speed limit in the creeks) as the tide was coming in, so we had to be careful navigating the shallows. Terry is very adept at finding the “good” side! It was wide at times and narrow at others, but finally we got across the island to …
The Washing Machine Beach!
We’d heard and read about it; time to see for ourselves.
Beach the dinghies on the leftStroll out to join the small crowdTodd enjoyed the soft sandThe ladies studied the options for where to give the “washing machine” a try
Thinking they would once again channel those inner swimsuit models, the ladies took a seat…or tried to, at least.
The swirling current and waves surprisingly lift you right up off your, well, you know…
Whoa!Wasn’t expecting that!Let’s try it this way (which worked for about two seconds).
Susie and Lynn may not have been able to reach those inner swimsuit models, but their inner little girls giggled like crazy. Clearly, this was fun.
So next up, the gals coaxed the gents to give it a try.
During the change in cast members, Susie stayed put, claiming rolling around was easier than trying to get up and down in it. Haha.
Seeing how much fun she was having, Todd joined her in the “machine.”
What swirl? This is a piece of cake, thinks Mr. Cool.And then, …here comes the lift!Oh, I get it now!
Next up, Terry and Lynn gave it a go.
Yikes!This is fun?Yeah, okay, it’s fun!
When everyone got up to leave the agitation cycle, they looked rather like drunken sailors.
Believe it or not, they’re all going to the same destination.
On the trip back through the creek it was time to look for turtles, rays, little sharks, anything big enough to see in the clear water.
Keep a sharp eye out there, Captain!
The day was beautiful with threatening clouds off in the distance.
Lynn spotting turtlesSusie spotting shallows
Turtles? Man, did we find ’em. Todd quit counting at 28; not sure if they were new ones or repeats! Ha!
We even captured some under water on video, which is fairly tricky from a dinghy!
Back out through the creeks lined with mangroves, occasionally being rocked by tour boats NOT following the 3 knot speed limit!
Sereneamazing mangroves and “king of the hill” palm!The mangrove roots are curved, beautiful works of art, in and of themselves.
We explored a couple of other creeks on the chart before getting tuckered out, then returned to the boats for the good ol’ ball bidding the day farewell.
Good night, turtles. Thanks for the good time. Rest well!
No visit to Normans Cay is complete without 1) visiting the colorful Welcome sign; and 2) diving or snorkeling the wrecked drug plane. So begins our special day.
View of the plane from the dinghyUnderwater view of the planeOnly one way to get there!
Todd and Terry headed in first. Then the ladies joined in the fun.
Here comes Susie (who has a history with this site, but that’s a story for another day)And here’s Lynn
Luckily, this year we carefully selected a time of day that the current was manageable.
UsLynn & Terry
Taking a brief pause here for a personalized shout out from Susie to “King Dave” & Peggy:
Look! I did it!
With Todd’s encouragement, I got back on that horse!
Countless fish, and we took some good pictures so that we can compare in years to come. All in all, a dive to remember.
A good time was had by all, especially the fish, who seemed to sense this was no ordinary day and followed Terry around for “fish food,” i.e., oatmeal.
Sometimes successfully hauling yourself back up into the dinghy is cause for celebration.
Nice job, Terry!
After snorkeling the plane, we found a tiny little island nearby to take a walk and dry off a bit.
We were surprised to find three very nice memorial stones/plaques, someone’s memories of loved ones left in a lovely spot.
Gotcha, little birdieSnail trailsOver there…We enjoyed our stroll until the pushy gal in the floppy hat started doing her thing again. (It’s a thankless job being the official group photographer.)Just keep me from falling over,and work with me, people. Special shot on a special day! 🙂
All tuckered out, we headed back to the boat.
While Todd was in the shower and Susie was hanging up our rinsed gear, Terry hailed from Finish Grade.
Susie looked up, and….. WHAT?? No Way!
Yes, way. Terry leapt from the top of their boat!!
While Terry was floating triumphantly and Lynn was taking 911 off standby, Susie considered hollering across that she hadn’t gotten the shot just to see if he’d do it again. Haha.
After the excitement, we finished cleaning up and headed over to Finish Grade to join them and Barry & Robin from Crossroads for a lovely surf & turf dinner, complete with homemade carrot cake. (Thanks, Lynn!)
We were all so busy relaxing and enjoying the evening – bet you can guess what video we watched for entertainment (backwards, even) – that we didn’t take any more photos, but we took plenty of memories. And I’m sure Terry will never forget “diving” into another decade. Happy Birthday, Dude!
Having fun near Oyster Cay was good, but the ‘Mare likes to move, so off we go on the next voyage. Ah, well, actually, we just idled south about 7.5 nautical miles, taking 90 minutes to get there…. to good ol’ Normans Cay. It was a pleasant cruise, not in the least a “three-hour tour.” You might remember Norman’s history, named after a pirate, but made famous by the movie “Blow” about a massive cocaine smuggling operation. For those interested, check out this writeup.
Once we got settled and had lunch, we “dinghied up” and headed north to stretch our legs, i.e., find a beach to comb, as we are always on the hunt for “treasures.” Unfortunately, this section of Normans Cay didn’t offer much in the line of sea glass or shells. It was mostly rugged stone. But there was…
A Mystery
While the fellas waited patiently on a rock (solving the problems of the world, as it were), the ladies strolled the length of what rocky shoreline they could safely access. They returned with a handful of these unknown whatchamacallits:
Intriguing. Just what are these things?
When we returned to the boat, we reached out to our niece for help.
Us: “What are these? Do turtles have teeth??”
Shel (after stifling a giggle, I’m sure): “They look like pieces of chiton.”
AHA! Marine Biology degree to the rescue!
Susie had taken this photo on that same rocky shoreline. Chiton parts, indeed. Thanks, Shel! 😉
Mystery solved; we bade the world good night in order to get some rest before exploring Normans Pond the next morning.
Here we go! For another long dinghy exploration. (reddish orange track)
Remember, calm on the left side, not so calm on the bottom and right of this chart. It was fun!
As you can see, Normans Cay is shaped sort of like an upside-down fishhook. Tucked in at the top is Normans Pond, only accessible by a very narrow cut of deep water. All the tan stuff is water less than 2 feet deep at low tide…
As we approached the southern anchorage on the way to the lower end of Normans, we saw a boat we thought we recognized. Got closer, and yep, it was Crossroads! We screeched the dinghies to a halt to say hello to Barry & Robin, who we last saw in Fort Pierce and Terry & Lynn had not yet met.
Barry & Robin had just arrived that morning. Cool.
After crashing Robin’s online church service and making introductions, we chatted a few and then resumed our journey to Normans Pond, which, as the chart shows, requires a trip around the southern side, which is a bouncy, splash in your face ride! (Difficult to get photos when you’re holding on.)
Sporty ride aroundTuck very close to the rock for entry to the “pond”And get a higher vantage point for VPR (“Visual Piloting Required”) to scout out a path through the shallows.
Once we got through the cut (sorry no photos) and into the pond, the water was much calmer.
And an absolutely beautiful shade of turquoise.
Imagine our surprise to find a mega yacht in there. We had enough adventure getting our dinghies in!
This Dutch made beauty only draws four feet and has a very brave and talented captain.
As we were gawking at the improbably anchored mega yacht, who showed up but Barry and Robin from Crossroads. They’d caught up!
And speaking of catching up, this was a fantastic opportunity for a group chat. So, we rafted together on the dinghies, enjoying the sunny morning, and jibber jabbing. Naturally, Susie wanted a group photo, but no matter how high she stretched out those long arms, from her vantage point in the center, all she captured was partial people. No way to get everyone.
Nothing but random limbs…Robin did a much better job from her vantage pointSelfie time!
It started getting a bit warm sitting there in the sun, and there was the tide to think about. We didn’t want to mistime the tide and end up stuck in Normans Pond, unless there was room for six extras on that mega yacht… So, we headed across the pond to check out the caves.
Ha! Almost got everyone on the fly: our “rollbar,” Barry & Robin in full view behind us and a partial of Terry & Lynn off to the right
We see this every once in a while, the limestone craggy island has been split open by the sea and the caves are exposed.
Robin got photosLynn & Terry got photo-graphedSusie clearly requested a photo “over there”Not IN the cave, Honey. We’re in a RUBBER boat!
After Susie threatened Todd with a paddle, we left the caves to check out a little beach that turned out to have the kind of sand where you sink to your ankles with each step. The most fun thing was the tiny mangroves trying to take hold.
In the sandAnd in the shallowsNotice how deep the footprints are – this was the kind of sand that wants to steal your shoes!
Mission accomplished: Normans Pond officially checked out. Now we had to face the sporty return. Somehow, it was much smoother on the ride back. Tides and currents. Tides and currents. Sometimes they’re in your favor.
Kick those dinghies in gearHome Sweet HomeAboard SaltyMare with Lynn & Terry and Robin & Barry
Everyone cleaned up from the adventure on Normans Pond and got back together for sundowners. What a splendid day with friends! But just wait until the next day, when someone amongst us is going to have a VERY special day!
DISCLAIMER: Unlike Robin, who is very, very good at getting her posts out daily (Kudos, Robin!), the SaltyMare crew is most often several days behind. So, trust us when we say, some good stuff is coming…