On a northern track

After our return from the Bahamas, we spent a couple of nights anchored next to Finish Grade in Fort Pierce where both crews sat still to get their respective game plans together. On Thursday the 18th, Terry and Lynn raised anchor, …


So, what was the gameplan for us? No doubt about it, first up, REPLACE THE AUTOPILOT! After a couple of months hand steering, the salty first mate had had enough.

We headed to the Fort Pierce City Marina, where, over the course of a week, we gave the SALTYMare a well-deserved and thorough bath, did some reprovisioning, had the fire suppression system inspected and certified, and, most importantly, spent a couple of days with technicians aboard to install the new autopilot. Naturally, the installation involved the emptying of cabinets, removal of ceiling panels, etc. Susie didn’t have the heart to take yet more photos of the interior in a shambles.

Speaking of pictures, however, we also now have a replacement camera. Back in business!


Yesterday morning, we began the sea trial for the new autopilot in the turning basin near the city marina.

First, we went round and round, calibrating the electronic compass, or was the captain still hand driving?!

Then, we used the long inlet stretch and its turn onto the ICW to test and test and test again. And guess what?

IT WORKED!!!

So, we wrapped it up, dropped the technicians off back at the marina, and immediately headed north!


It was good to be moving again, especially when the boat can hold a track. Yes, this new system refers to a “route” as a “track” instead. Hence, we will be learning new parlance.

Transiting the ICW, we always enjoy the natural beauty, and the mighty ospreys (Todd’s favorite) tend to catch our eyes.


We began under sunny skies before spending half a day cruising through squalls with sustained winds in the upper 20’s and gusts to 34 knots. It was a pleasant surprise to have the rain clear just in time for us to anchor. It was no surprise though to have the day end with a cloud-strewn sunset.

Anchored south of the Melbourne Bridge

With the cool, stormy breeze, we spent a peaceful night anchored where we’d wiggled in between the crab pots. This morning we discovered that the anchor had indeed held very well. It was holding so well in fact that it was a bit of a struggle to raise it. When it cleared the surface, we saw why. The anchor came up carrying a large mass of dark mud and small stones stubbornly clinging to it, rather like wet, sticky Quikrete. Yuck!

Toto, we’re not in the Bahamas anymore. 😉

Back in the U.S.A.

As predicted, we were out of the reach of the Bahamian cell towers at our last stop anchored off Mangrove Cay Monday. We spent the afternoon making final preparations for the crossing – securing the dinghy to the deck, route planning, stowing errr… everything, planning/preparing simple meals, engine fluid checks, etc. You know, loafing… Ha!

Once all the preparations were done, Susie sat on the swim platform sipping a cocktail and dangling her feet in the tranquil turquoise water. As the sun set, Todd blew the conch horn for the final time on this trip.

Then it was anchor light on, alarm set for 0400, and crew to bed.


We weighed anchor at 0445 and quietly slipped out of the anchorage. It was Mangrove Cay (uninhabited middle of nowhere) – there were like, two other boats.

By 0520, it looked like this.

That’s Finish Grade (the cluster of navigation lights) traveling behind us under the “light” of the rising moon.

By 0545, the sky was beginning to lighten a bit as we continued on the Bahama Bank with the radar whirring and the courtesy flag flapping in the breeze.


We were headed west, so there was a lovely sunrise to our stern.


Our route had us about three hours crossing the Little Bahama Bank before entering the North Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf Stream. The conditions were idyllic! Yeah, planning! As we had our final look at the starfish, sharks, rays, and others through the clear 20-30 foot depth, we entered the 3000+ foot deep ocean. Of course, fishing lines were deployed on both boats. Oui, the optimism!


As the day is born, the sun heats things up and the wind typically picks up. Not terribly, but it changed the conditions, as one would expect.


Our route was not unusual, but it was a bit amazing that twice we crossed paths with very l-a-r-g-e ships. Close enough for attention.


Seems like an uneventful passage, right? Well, almost.

Just after midday of a beautiful day on the water, watching the flying fish, the clouds, etc. cruising across the invisible “river” (the Gulf Stream), Todd spots something in the water ahead. Lo and behold, an overturned vessel. Oh geez…..

Closer inspection revealed no one in the water, and we noticed “buoys” nearby. Todd called the Coast Guard to report it. Finish Grade filled in the details via texting with the Coast Guard (Starlink to the rescue again). Subsequently, we heard on the VHF a Navy plane that happened to be in the area volunteering to fly over the scene. We asked if we needed to continue circling and were told it was not necessary.

Although it felt weird to move on, as we did, the Navy jet showed up and made ever-widening circles, reporting findings over the radio. It was good to know that, on this day, within minutes, folks were responding.


Hours later, around 1720, with the late afternoon sun glaring off the water, we entered the Fort Pierce inlet and picked up to 11.5 knots! Whee!

It was almost like the ‘Mare was anxious to be back in the States (heading for the barn?). Nah, just riding the inbound tide.


As we rounded the corner and approached the one bridge between us and our anchorage, “Honey, is that a…………

…..

Yep. It’s a tiki bar. Welcome to Florida!

P.S. As expected, no fish were harmed in the making of this crossing. ha!

Keep ’em moving!

Since Susie’s return from Virginia Thursday (and her actually waking up Friday morning), we have been making our way northwest each day, progressing toward our required departure from the Bahamas.

Friday, we had a short cruise to catch up with Terry & Lynn at Manjack.

SaltyMare and Finish Grade anchored at Manjack

Terry & Lynn had been there for a couple of days and were ready with a plan to guide us on a dinghy trip through the “creek” that runs into the interior of the island. We saw dozens of turtles – large, small, and smaller! – a couple of rays, and even a cute young shark (Baby Shark Shark Shark Shark) as we moseyed through the mangrove-edged waters. Just beautiful. It was good to get into such a pristine slice of nature.

Turtle spotting

Next up, they lead us to a path to the “famous” Art Magic Art-Walk on Manjack.

Having had some time on their hands, Terry and Lynn were prepared to add their own trash-to-treasure crafty creations to the Art Magic Art-Walk.

The Art Walk was… strange? That’s not the word. Bizarre? Nah. Eclectic? Close. How about “Just so creative and darn crazy that it can’t help but make you smile and laugh? Yup, that’s it!

With that, enjoy the slideshow of art cruisers have created from trash found in the islands:


Early Saturday morning, Todd and Terry tried a bit of snorkeling before we left Manjack for Allans Pensacola Cay. The ladies sat this one out. Not much for Jacques (Todd) to find ‘cept a lobster!

After the snorkel and not-take-a-lobster bit Saturday, we stowed the dinghies, weighed anchor and made a three-hour cruise to Allans Pensacola, where we all stretched our legs with some successful beach combing.

Sunday, we had a four-hour plus cruise to Great Sale Cay, where we have a weak signal.

At sunset, we had a visitor stop in for a chat with Susie.


Going Incommunicado!

Today we are heading to Mangrove Cay to stage for the weather window to cross back to Florida Tuesday. Never having been to Mangrove Cay, we don’t know whether or not we will have a signal there. Naturally there won’t be a signal during our fourteen-hour crossing tomorrow.

Anyone who would like to keep up with our progress can use the Locate Us button, as that will be tracking the boat’s movements. Here’s to an uneventful, smooth crossing back to the United States!

Home and underway!

First up, a bit of explanation for those who may have been trying to reach us on the Bahamian number. Todd had an unfortunate mishap in the dinghy Wednesday, during which our Bahamian phone ended up at the bottom of Marsh Harbour. So, our 242 number is no good for now (unless you’re a fish, perhaps). We have reactivated our U.S. phone plan and can receive and send text messages on our 205 numbers until we travel beyond the reach of the Bahamian cell towers.


Now back to the journey.

Mission truly accomplished! Susie’s Mom has a new knee. It was a fairly typical “post-surgery” affair with the patient getting stronger each day and the physical therapy as the most important event.

Well, having visitors and getting all kinds of food and desserts is fun, too! 😉 But, getting up and around to regain independence remains the goal.

Stylish 87-year old Mom on her feet again with her new knee!


What was Todd up to while Susie was in Virginia? (Yeah, I know, poor thing “stranded” in the islands, right?)


Apparently, he got drug off the boat by Terry and Lynn to do some snorkeling, and if he’s underwater, he’s finding stuff.

Then there are the traditions of birdwatching and sunset watch.


With her mission accomplished and her mother doing well, Susie flew back to Marsh Harbour Thursday.

As we’ve mentioned, weather controls the options while in the islands. Soooo, as soon as we got back to the boat from the airport, we stowed the dinghy, raised anchor, bade farewell to the little turtle who kept an eye on Todd during his stay, and left the harbor for a three-hour cruise around the “whale” (you may remember that) to Green Turtle Cay.

No rest for the weary!


So weary, in fact, Susie had to wake up to capture a shot of the sunset. 🙂
Then it was, captain and crew full lights out on the SaltyMare!

Mission accomplished!

Some of you might be old enough to remember the commercial with O. J. Simpson racing through the airport, jumping over things to make his flight. Well, this wasn’t like that. Sure, we were anxious, made worse by a change in wind direction Sunday night that made things even more sporty in Red Bay. We stuck it out for most of the morning to (hopefully) allow time for some of the boats anchored in Marsh Harbour to (hopefully) move out. At 1100, we donned our life jackets against the sway and bobble, then weighed anchor and crossed our fingers (and toes for good measure).

We saw plenty of encouraging boat traffic in the distance and on AIS, but you can’t really see into the harbor until you round the corner in the channel. After a short two-hour cruise and with all eyes intently focused on Marsh Harbour, we rounded the bend, and yeah! We think there’s room!

Now, if we can just find a spot with enough depth. A bit of slow cruising through shallow spots, wiggling through the anchored boats, and suddenly, there! Drop the hook! We are in the harbor with 1.6 ft below the keel at low tide.

SaltyMare has safe haven for Susie’s trip! Whew. And our fantastic friends on Finish Grade are right beside us. High fives all around! Heck, we even broke out a shot of something; sorry, don’t remember what.

Okay, admittedly, we are on the edge of kind of the informal part of a channel. It’ll be fine, Honey…

A huge sigh of relief

To top it off, Lynn pinged us with an invitation to dinner aboard Finish Grade so we wouldn’t have to worry about cooking and could focus on last minute details, a kind gesture that almost brought a tear to our eyes. Knowing that Tuesday morning would involve Susie packing and fussing over the last things she wants Todd to remember (along with a sweet list of Honey Do’s), we dined with Terry & Lynn and celebrated the sun setting over Marsh Harbour.


Susie was up before sunrise. During coffee time, Todd asked if she packed long pants. Deer in the headlights look – umm… pants?? A quick check of the weather in Virginia lead to removing a muumuu or two from the suitcase to make room for said pants. Done. Great. What about a jacket? sigh (She adamantly drew a line against packing socks.)

During coffee/tea time we noticed the anchorage continued to empty out, especially those to the south of us. Quick conference and both boats moved within the anchorage. Both boats feel better about not being near (or IN, yes we were kinda IN) the channel.

With that handled, we headed to shore shortly before noon for the taxi pick-up to get her to the little airport for the 1405 flight.

Short ride to the airport, and officially we can call the mission complete! Thanks for the ride, Rosie!

See you later LoveBug, give your Mom a healing hug for me! I miss you already! mmmwwwwaaaa! ❤️😘