Our Travels

To get within the path of totality for the solar eclipse, we left Charleston, West Virginia at 0400 the day after the wedding, for the six-hour drive to French Lick, Indiana. (0400? Wait, it’s dark, isn’t it? Can’t we pretend this is what totality will look like and go back to bed for a bit? Nah. Come on, sleepyhead, time to get going.)

Fortunately, we hit none of the traffic delays and crowds predicted by the media, at least not in French Lick, Indiana. (Good choice.) French Lick, named so because, think buffalos licking salt near a trading post run by Frenchmen. Lots on the Buffalo Trace.

Time to explore the French Lick Resort, consisting of the historic West Baden Springs Hotel and French Lick Springs Hotel, as well as a golf course, casino, pickleball court, walking trails, and stable, among other things. The two hotels are just over a mile apart. And they used to be in serious competition! (Link just below for those who’d like more info.)

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There is so much history here that we’d never be able to cover it all. Not that you’d want us to, right? 🙂

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In 1901, The original hotel was destroyed by fire. Owner, Lee Wiley Sinclair, tried to sell what was left to French Lick Springs Hotel, but that gent declined. So, Sinclair did the unthinkable; he found a “guy,” gave him an unheard-of contract for the time, and in less than a year had built a fireproof hotel with the largest dome of the world at its center. At the time, the 8th Wonder of the World! Not exceeded until 1955 when the Charlotte Coliseum was built. The architectural marvel, with its 200-foot dome, made headlines when it was built and is still stunning visitors today.

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Solar eclipse

The much-anticipated eclipse did not disappoint. The day was perfect, and we were in awe of the marvelous spectacle!

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After the eclipse, we explored the hotel and grounds, choosing to walk to the other hotel. Since we were a bit overdressed for the warm afternoon, we really appreciated the little 1930’s historic train that took us back to our hotel.

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Pluto Water

What’s this about springs? Well, around 1840, Dr. William Bowles and his business partner began selling the local mineral spring water they called “Pluto Water,” after the Greek god of the underworld. “Taking the waters” was promoted to cure a host of maladies, including alcoholism, influenza, asthma, blah, blah, etc. Everything! Revenues surpassed $1 million in 1919. Production of Pluto Water ceased in 1972, however, after traces of LITHIUM were discovered.

Of the original springs that put French Lick on the map, all but one are capped. We went off in search of the one remaining open well, located at the French Lick Springs Hotel. What we learned is that, in the end, the water is essentially… (read the sign on the right!)

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The hotel has had its share of trials, since 1852, from the devastating fire in 1901 to a hailstorm in 2023 that severely damaged the dome. While the crews are almost done with the repairs to the dome, they don’t necessarily find all the screws. Enter, our valet, who found one while delivering the car…

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The museum, like the hotels, provided a wealth of information about French Lick and its history.

There was plenty of history about Buffalo Trace (the travelway, not the bourbon), Pluto Water, early MLB training, Larry Bird (“the hick from French Lick”), and the Hagenbeck-Wallace Circus, 2nd behind Ringling.

After several hours of reading, we finally had to call it a day and head off to find our cabin rental an hour or so south, in Magnet, Indiana. That’s right, it just draws us there. 😉