We left Beaufort, SC, on November 13 for a four-hour cruise to Bull Creek (near Daufuskie), the lovely spot where we spent our very first night at anchor way back in October last year. It was as peaceful and beautiful as we remembered. So much so, that this year we decided to relax and stay awhile – four nights, in fact.

---

---

After oohing and aahing at the sunrise, it was time to settle down with a cup of coffee (or tea) for the rest of the morning show put on by the dolphins and birds. Apparently, the fishing is great on Bull Creek! A variety of birds would follow around after the hunting dolphins.

Did you spot the snippet of a dolphin in each of the above photos? Capturing them is tricky, since they don’t exactly announce when they’re coming to the surface. Ha! They were so abundant in the creek though, that with patience, we even got a few on video:

---

What a difference a year makes. Last year on Bull Creek, we had to close up the boat to keep the no-see-ums out. This year those blood-sucking pests apparently, and thankfully, froze their tiny wings off. 🙂 We awoke to a bug-free but chilly 41 degrees and had to install the rear enclosure for warmth. (Dolphins don’t appear to care – water still in the 60’s.)

The next morning, while enjoying coffee-time on the now warmer aft deck, we looked up to a strange site across the marsh grass.

---

It’s the calmness here that is so intoxicating; beauty all around and just the sounds of the natural world. Seems like time is standing still. Oh well, let’s get the noisy dinghy down and explore! Maybe figure out where that big barge came from?

Our brisk sunny trek “up the creek” revealed more low country beauty, a couple of secluded homes, and a dock or two, but where that big barge came from is still a mystery.

---

---

Safe travels, Steve and Karen. Enjoy the Journey!

---

…then we weighed anchor and bade farewell to Bull Creek. After all, if we’re going to make it to our reservation in Florida, we do have to get moving.

I’m sure we will visit Bull Creek again in the future, but this year’s next stop is Isle of Hope Marina in Savannah, GA.

Everyone knows THAT’s not possible. Whether your home is on the water or terra firma, it requires upkeep. On a boat, it’s not the number of chores, it’s the complexity that’ll toss a monkey wrench into things. In this case, “Appliance Swap-out Time!” Susie was super excited, like Ralph the Saint Bernard on Chewy’s Peanut Butter Box commercial.

We’re going with pictures for this tale.

Part I – the Washer

But first, we needed to get the old machine (did I mention, heavy) out of the boat before we could bring the replacement in. Clearly, we needed some muscle. Not like we don’t have three sons, or something. I’m sure they’d all pitch in if they lived nearby. In this case, fortunately for them, they don’t. 😉 (Love you, guys. Just busting your chops.) For some reason, Susie thought College Hunks Hauling Junk would be a good plan. Hmmm, wonder why? At any rate, we ended up with a couple of nice fellas from a local moving company.

---

Part II – the Refrigerator

Bringing in the new one revealed a whoopsie! When Todd verified the needed opening, the “as built dimensions” on the fridge were too big for the hole! Surely there is enough “slop” in the hole? Nope! After checking with a fellow woodworking friend for confidence, in dove our resident woodworker!

Shout out to dock mates for their assistance – Kevin from Destination Unknown for slithering way up in that cabinet when the washer connections insisted on leaking and Terry from Finish Grade for helping Todd muscle the new refrigerator into the opening! Who needs Thor when you’ve got willing friends?

---

Speaking of friends, November 1 has become something of an insurance-mandated “shotgun start” for cruisers. It’s the technical end of hurricane season and the first day most can venture below Cumberland Island, Georgia. You should have seen the boats heading out. We were delayed by Susie’s new spectacles (ha!), but for plenty of others, it was time to go south!

---

With the chores sorted out, we can get back to what we enjoy about cruising – life on the water.

---

We finally bid farewell to Lady’s Island Marina yesterday. Today, as we sit anchored in a totally idyllic spot creating this post about our time in Beaufort, I am pleased to report we did not forget how to anchor! Ha.

After being chased up the coast by Hurricane Ian, we spent October enjoying South Carolina and getting some chores done on the boat (not to mention Susie got glasses – welcome to a new decade). Following some delays that were out of our control, what happened when it was time to depart? Yep. Hurricane Nicole! Really?

---

So, what have we been doing between the stormy bookends of Ian and Nicole? Well, since we’ve been remiss in posting, we’ll split this long month into two entries. For this post, let’s highlight the fun stuff. As the weather shifted back and forth between warm and cool, we went ‘xploring in the area!

Chapel of Ease ruins, Saint Helena Island, SC

During the Colonial period, “chapels of ease” were constructed by planters out on the islands as houses of worship because their plantations were located so far from the town churches. This one was built around 1740 and served the island parishioners until it was heavily damaged in a forest fire in 1886.

---

Fort Fremont, Saint Helena Island, SC

At the turn of the 20th century, Port Royal Naval Station was built off the deepest natural harbor on the east coast. They built the only dry dock in the southeast big enough to repair the largest of Navy ships, the battleships. Important right? Well, across the bay, Fort Fremont was constructed in 1898 to protect this important facility. Super important at the time, but political winds changed, and it was pretty much shut down by 1906 as Charleston Harbor got dredged to become the hub.

---

Hunting Island State Park, SC

Hunting Island State Park – that’s right, it was a real hunting spot! Nowadays, it attracts more than a million visitors a year for its five miles of pristine beach. Prime pickings for shells and sharks’ teeth and a cool lighthouse!

---

Good times!

---

More about this stay later, for today, we begin our journey back south. Gotta scoot! Hope we remember how to anchor! Hahahaha!

These metaphors are getting a bit crazy; first we’re a horse and now we are scoring touchdowns. Either way, it’s good to be here in Lady’s Island.

Remember those “eyes” from the other day’s post? They were at it again as we cruised up the ICW to hang a right onto the St. Johns River.

The St. Johns River coming into Jacksonville certainly includes one big thing – Naval Base Mayport. One of the major ones on the east coast of the U.S., and that means the “eye in sky” keeps a vigilant watch. So, while we watched the ‘chopper watching us, BIG commerce continued. Geez, those container ships are really big when they go by less than 100 feet away.

---

We both love to see our country’s Navy. It’s beautiful and powerful all at once. We figure they will be heading out also, as is the case when a hurricane is eminent. They are safer at sea!

Our transition from river into “la mer bleue” was uneventful, and about eight hours later we celebrated a gorgeous sunset. Gosh, it feels great to be moving again! SaltyMare and her crew love the ocean!

---

Speaking of moments to celebrate, at 1535, we unceremoniously slipped north of the insurance company’s desired 31st parallel. Would someone please tell Hurricane Ian?

---

And 12 very dark hours later, after travelling on a moon-less night (pictures impossible, duh!) and being depressed/concerned as we cruised by a long line of “really big” ships (their lights were way far apart) just waiting in the ocean off Savannah, we were finally greeted with a great sunrise lighting our path along the Beaufort River in South Carolina.

TOUCHDOWN! Now we can hunker down to prepare for what Ian brings north. Just as soon as we take naps….

Ya’ll stay safe out there!

Well, South Carolina, actually

With the SaltyMare tugging at her reins and the first mate’s desire to just get north, the captain made a quadruple check (been watching it for days) on the predicted sea state for today and tonight, and we are making an overnight offshore run from Jacksonville, Florida to Beaufort, South Carolina. Yeah, stretch her legs out!

Taking advantage of the calm before the storm to let this freshly powered Selene Ocean Trawler do what she was built for!