Andre, the park warden, was right. It was quiet around Normans Cay on Sunday. Since we’d had so much fun in the water at Highbourne, we wanted to see what we could find around Normans, as well.

We tried snorkeling near the wrecked drug plane, but the current was just too strong. So, everyone jumped back in the dinghy, and we went to find Normans Pond, basically on the inside of the island, almost surrounded by land. It would be impossible to get the SaltyMare through the rough, shallow entrance but the “pond” is huge, calm, and stunningly beautiful!

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That was pretty. What’s next?

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When we arrived at Shroud Cay, the wind was whipping (from the right on the map) and the water churning (Huh? from the right and top?). Picking up the mooring ball was an ordeal (mostly because it’s actually only the third time we did it), but we got it done and no one was hurt; too badly…
Thirty minutes after shutting down the engines, we had second thoughts about the anchorage, though. The boat was secure on the mooring but being bashed from side to side by a serious swell from the devil. Simiplicity looked bad, but the Mare was bucking at the bit big time! Eight seconds? No way! Each boat handles conditions differently. SaltyMare didn’t like these at all! And her crew, even less! As planned, it was still early enough in the afternoon that we had time to change plans!

Plan B (for the nautical types – Bravo)

We’ve learned good cruisers have contingency plans. Ours was to move to Warderick Wells Cay.

A wonderful night sleep ensued.

We talked about the “Fly-Over” Cays in an earlier post. Well, to where are these folks “flying?” Please fasten your seatbelts and stow your tray tables; we are about to land…. Highbourne Cay may be known as the “Gateway to the Exumas,” but we think we know where the happy folks are headed next. It’s a sizeable, hook-shaped island called Normans Cay. Also one of the most notorious. From 1978-1982, it was the home of one of the biggest cocaine smuggling operations of the Medellin Cartel! There are movies and books written about this joint! Shoot, there is even a wrecked drug cargo plane in the water! The history of Norman’s Cay is just one source for anyone who might be interested. Think the movie, “Blow” or Netfilx series, “Narcos.” Wild stuff.

Late Saturday morning, we left our pleasant spot at Highbourne to head south to Normans, taking the outside route just in case any of the fish might not recognize the SaltyMare. Here, fishy fishy….

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There were quite a few mega yachts anchored on the Exuma Bank just inside the cut. (Yes, that one has its own chopper.)

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Speaking of choppers and fly-tos, Normans Cay has an airstrip. After passing the big girls, we got a few shots of the comings and goings near the airport. Actually, given it’s the weekend, it seemed like it was constant air traffic; about every 30 minutes or so, all day.

Then, to our utter amazement, binoculars revealed this on the beach!

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So, we secured Simplicity and SaltyMare, launched the dinghies,

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We wandered through the festivities on the beach and then took the nearby road back so we could check out the airstrip and idyllic little tropical resort, MacDuff’s Cottages and Restaurant.

We’d been watching a storm off in the distance and hoping it wouldn’t hit the anchorage while we were ashore. The boats could use the fresh water rinse, but their owners left hatches open, and the rinse is really not helpful INSIDE the boat. Although we got sprinkled on, the rain remained in the distance and led to a spectacular display at sunset! Good night, Normans Cay. And all the “go-fast” party boats were gone… Andre was right.

Given some of the grand boats that are in this anchorage, we used our “support” vessel, wait… we are a “regular” cruiser’s boat, so therefore, the “dinghy” to explore waters not accessible to the SaltyMare. Through the shallows yesterday, and today we went out into the cut and around to the top of the “checkmark,” just boogieing around with our snorkel gear, looking. Find a spot, hop in, is it full of plain old absolutely gorgeous stuff that we have seen before? Enjoy and move on. Amazingly, we discovered a nice group of coral heads only about 100 feet from our boat where no one else seemed to have any interest. Broke out the “vintage” camera and underwater case (circa 2008) to try and capture a few shots of the wildlife. Starting on top left and working clockwise, Brain Coral, Great Star Coral with Blue Chromis, Christmas Tree Tube Worms nestled in Hump Coral, Flat-nosed Needlefish, collection of corals and purple sea fan amongst various corals, Barracuda, big Hump Coral!

But you know, no simple dinghy trip can be without adventure. At one stop our anchor picked up something. Of course, Susie can catch something… Even had a good fight! But, alas, inedible. She had to throw it back. Still victorious!

After exploring, we “returned the favor” and cooked steaks for the folks on Simplicity. (Naturally, they served us fresh catch, while we had to stick to beef from the freezer.) We awakened to a fiery sunrise, ready to move on.

Upon leaving Ship Channel Cay, we realized we were returning to the top of the increasingly popular Exumas and what appears to be the new norm for boating in that area of the Bahamas. Just a few examples below.

After watching the big boys zoom by, Simplicity and SaltyMare settled into an anchorage inside the “checkmark” at Highbourne Cay just before Noon. Simplicity with her shallow draft tucked in close to shore, while the SaltyMare with her deeper draft stayed further back. Wasn’t long after that, into what we thought was to be a quiet anchorage, boy did it get “popular.” Lord howdy, “popular” meaning bigger boats, charter boats, and water toys. Among them, a modern 113 footer (below), the biggest Cat in the Bahamas at 83 feet (41ft wide!), and no less than four 62-foot cats, and well, we just took pictures as they went by. Old and new, power and sail, all these have more than a dozen guests and multiple crew members aboard. But hey, they are fun to watch go by or anchor next to….. 🙂

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Meanwhile, amid the squealing girls, jet-skis pulling skiers, and music…

We found a couple of spots nearby that didn’t have sharks or joyously noisy masses, and we had a great time snorkeling and exploring. Colors abound – vivid red, bright yellow, electric blue, wild greens, too many colors and fish to describe!

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After enjoying the sandbar and the sunshine, Susie wandered off to get pictures of the SaltyMare at anchor. Wait. Where did Todd go? He was just right here!

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Pleasantly tuckered out, we returned to the boat to rinse the gear, shower, prepare dinner, and blow the conch horn in salute to another sunset. Ahh!

Today’s plan? More snorkeling. And Todd is bringing his underwater camera this time. Camera in one hand and spear in the other? Always hopeful!

Research would probably show that the chain of islands known as the Exumas is the most popular destination for folks on a boat, further confirmed by the discussions we’ve had with various cruisers. Common theme, “the blue water.” Given its proximity to Nassau (remember pirates’ backyard and the world’s first Land & Sea Park), it’s just, “the” place to go. Heck, saw this very line on at least three websites “Highbourne Cay is known world-wide as the gateway to the ultimate ephemeral islands, The Exuma Cays.” And its only 35 miles away. Here’s the thing, look at the map, Highbourne is the “check mark’ shaped Cay at the bottom. How about those above it?

Remember we are the red arrow and all those little “plus sign squares”, those denote coral heads, lots of them. There is no longer a beacon on Beacon Cay.

So, as you can see, we decided to stop at Ship Channel Cay. Sorry, couldn’t find a history and the channel is not big enough for ships. Who knows from whence the name came? It’s just one of those islands that most folks cruise on past. We’re glad we stopped. The fishing was fun, despite the still sporty Exuma sound on the other side. What did Susie do while Todd went to try, yes, try once again to catch a fish? You guessed it!

It was really satisfying to actually enjoy an anchorage essentially alone (friends on Simplicity notwithstanding). Okay, we did feast aboard Simplicity on the fish that Dave caught, amazingly fresh! But honestly it was glorious to bask in multi-sapphire water, to snorkel around and explore, and to not hear roosters! Ha! Hopefully, you caught our drift. And of course, a beautiful sunset.

And here is proof of the nickname we have bestowed on this group of islands, truly “Flyover Cays!”