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You anchored where?

February 7, 2022ssolsen12Leave a comment

Where we anchored Saturday night on the west side of Pipe Cay turned out to be quite rolly (is that a word?). There were five sailboats and a cat in there with us, all bobbling. Although the winds were predominantly from the east, there was a swell coming from the south that wrapped around the point to hit everyone broadside. So, in the morning, we launched the dinghy to scout out a new location. Just as soon as the dinghy splashed into the water, a nurse shark showed up to check it out. I’d already put the camera in the dry bag, so Todd quickly grabbed the phone to capture the image below before the about 5-footer lost interest and lazily swam away. After exploring the nearby cays, circling, and reading depths, we found our new spot and dropped a pin on the Lat and Long. Time to go get the SaltyMare.

Rather than taking the time to put the dinghy up top, we opted to tow it to the new spot. Goodbye, bobbing sailboats. We’re outta here. Hang on, Lil Filly!

The new location was not something we ever would have chosen based on charts or VPR (Visual Piloting Rules), i.e. use your eyes. The color of the water and the currents tell you a lot, like hey, knucklehead, don’t go there, etc. But we had carefully charted out a path in the dink and confirmed it on the charts once back aboard the Mare. Time to put on our big-boy trunks and be brave. We followed the deeper blue path to a small opening that crosses a layer of submerged rock to the right of those visible in the distance. Yes, rock.

All in all, we anchored in an absolutely ideal spot where the swirling currents flow around us but don’t roll us. We are snuggled in a small area between a nice house on Little Pipe Cay (left photo below) and a tiny unnamed cay with a beautiful setup – dockage, multiple houses, and their own beach (right photo).

As we swing with the tides, the private beach comes within ~100′

With the anchor set securely (checked and it’s buried! yeah!) and the water temp over 80, it was definitely time for some snorkeling. Let’s check things out near the boat!

Just as we were wrapping up our swim, a huge Eagle Ray cruised over. He swam right past Todd, who was fortunate enough to still be in the water. By the time I got the camera, he was headed on his merry way. Perfect end to a fun day!

But, actually, I have to end this post with a different tale. We took advantage of the slack tide to swim and snorkel in our beautiful little anchorage. When I tired, I enjoyed one more lap around, then headed to the swim platform ladder, past the lone little fish still hanging out back there, and popped my head up out of the water to find…a gift. I felt like a school girl who’d just been presented a flower. What a fun surprise!

A gift, Honey, but about that stainless polishing??

Background: Exuma or “the Exumas?”

February 6, 2022ssolsen12Leave a comment

Exuma or “the Exumas” stretch more than 100 miles and count more than 365 in number. The biggest cay is Great Exuma down near the bottom of the chart (yeah, hard to show the full expanse of them). The red box roughly shows the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. Established in 1958 (a fine year for Todd) as one of the first such parks in the world. A small group of naturalists sought to save a chunk of this beautiful area from developers. Lead by, ready for this, the grandson of Leonard Tolstoy, the famed Russian author, the group was successful in getting the government to establish the Bahamas National Trust and then the Park (all 176 square miles of it).

You can see where we are (red arrow) and all the little marks we created based on talking to our experienced cruising friends. Anchorages, a good snorkel/dive spot, and even a must go area where supposedly even Todd can catch a fish! But with all those islands and area there is just so much to explore, it will take years to even scratch the surface. (Honey, we are never moving off the boat.) The off-white is very deep water, think 3000 plus! The light blue is shallow (from about 50 on down). The tides move in and out of all the spaces between all those yellow islands, so we have to be mindful of the current flow.
As far as settlements, the story is fairly familiar. The Spanish, after Columbus in 1492, brought smallpox and a need for slaves and salt. Unfortunately, because of that, from the middle 1500s to the middle 1600s it was pretty quiet around here; there just wasn’t anybody left. Then came the pirates. They seemed to like the Bahamas, basically empty islands. Nassau was the real hang in the early 1700s – you’ve heard of the main dude, Edward Teach (Blackbeard) – and the Exuma’s were the backyard hideouts.
Finally in 1718, the English King granted the first real governorship, and Woodes Rogers did a good job rounding up the pirates and establishing order.
For us, Exuma is just a really big bunch of islands surrounded by beautiful water. Let’s go exploring!

Settled in and watching our first sunset off of Pipe Cay in the Exumas (as a nearby cruiser returns to their sailboat from their own explorations)

E to E

February 5, 2022February 6, 2022ssolsen12Leave a comment

We left Eleuthera to move south and over to the Exumas. Timing the tides, we safely slipped by our anchorage mates at 0512, in the dark, with radar-a-whirling. Several squiggly turns and then straight across, followed by a bunch more squiggly turns; for a journey of about 54 nautical miles.

After the first bunch of squiggles in the pitch black, the sun rose as we passed by the lower reverse “ↄ” arm of Eleuthera with a perfect picture-postcard view. Sun’s up, let’s throw a line out! Cross your fingers for Surf & Turf for dinner baby!

About a third of the way across we saw what we at first thought was a really BIG, black dolphin. It was so big, however, we think it may have been a Dense beak or Blainesville beaked whale. It didn’t jump like this internet picture, but it was much bigger than a dolphin. (We didn’t see it long enough to get our own photo. Rats!)

Very shortly after seeing the big fellow, we spotted a frenzied commotion off to port where large, fat fish (foot long plus) were literally jumping out of the water. How much easier could this get, right? We came off course and headed right over. ZING! Yes! We hooked something, and I brought her around so Todd could reel it in. We ended up making a Crazy Ivan circle before the “something” broke the line. UGH. Alas, only “turf” on the grill tonight!

Of course Todd would choose Conch Cut for our entrance to the Exumas. He’s a Key West conch head!

There’s a fascinating circular hole in that rock

Through the cut and tada, into the jewel-toned waters of the Exumas! Ready for more sun and, hopefully warmer water (gauge reads 80ish). Right after we anchored, we were “greeted” by a large ray slowly swimming lazy circles in the clear water alongside the boat.

Last day in Rock Sound

February 4, 2022February 14, 2022ssolsen122 Comments

We’ve been taking advantage of the quiet, cool, breezy days. Susie gets the idea to polish the stainless parts of our SaltyMare (quite a bit of shiny stuff). While working on the bow, she was visited several times by ballyhoo; often enough that she finally able to “catch” a photo. (Yes, Mom, she took this one!) Well, during the week, the decision was made that the weather will allow us to head to the Exumas early, real early, this (Saturday) morning, so as much as she enjoys polishing stainless, she was pulled away to dining. Yep, dining.

There were a couple of restaurants we wanted to hit in Rock Sound, and now we had only Friday to do so. First up, Frigate’s Bar & Grill for Caesar salad, which rumor said was the best ever. Well, it was fresh and delicious, but it didn’t beat Tres Luna Bar and Kitchen in Hoover, Alabama. Tres Luna, couldn’t, however, hold a candle to the view from Frigate’s…

Earlier in the week, we’d been told by locals we should definitely try the baked macaroni at Wild Orchids, so we stopped for lunch during one of our grocery expeditions only to find its not something they normally carry on the menu. However, the owner, Sybil, said they’d make it for us if we returned. So we made plans for Saturday (explaining about someone’s birthday plans having gone awry due to Covid). Then the weather turned and we knew we needed to head out before dawn Saturday. When we called Sybil to apologize for the plan change, she told us to come on over on Friday. Well, not only was there baked macaroni, but she’d set up a lovely pop-up birthday, complete with decorations, music and cake!

Around town in Rock Sound

February 3, 2022ssolsen12Leave a comment

Considered the most populated area of Eleuthera, the shopping/provisioning is easy. For the freshest selection of produce, cruisers tend to hit the grocery stores the day after the supply boat comes in, which it did on Tuesday; hence, we’re going!

Hall’s – grocery, bakery, deli, and all the above!

Shoe leather express always in play on trips to the grocery stores. It was heart-warming to hear the sounds of children from the school windows. Apparently, they’ve gone back to in-school learning here in Rock Sound. Past pretty yards, a couple of churches, and of course, chickens. Hey! That’s SaltyMare peeking through the palms. She looks good in the tropics!

Along the way, we passed Ocean Hole Park (gleaned from the sign): The inland blue hole is ~300′ wide, >600′ deep, and thought to be connected to the ocean through underground passages formed nearly 300,000 years ago when the limestone bedrock eroded. The somewhat salty water has a high mineral and sulphur content believed to have healing powers. The pond-like spot is enjoyed by many turtles and ocean fish, including angelfish, parrotfish, mangrove snappers, and sergeant majors. Shame the water was too cool or we’d be taking a “healing” dip with those fishes!

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Author: ssolsen12