Now that we had our taste of Rome, it was time to move on. We reversed the process we’d used to get into the city by hiring a car service to take us to the airport to pick up another rental car for the rest of our adventure in Italy. (And we’d thought the first driver was a bit aggressive. This one? Mamma Mia, what a gutsy guy!)
Mobile again, our next stop was Massa Lubrense, 16 miles southeast of Naples out on the Amalfi. The drive was spectacular, along the side of the mountains looking out at the sea as we skirted the city of Naples.
Ah, Naples! World famous pizza, here we come! A-n-d… oops. Our timing was such that the restaurants were between lunch and dinner service, i.e. closed. Seems like our MO.
Forget the pizza, Todd had another surprise for Susie at our next rental.
(Look closely. There, between the palms. See it?
Federo had a little competition from another of the owners’ pets, a very clever gatto (cat).
Our host, Donato, had warmly greeted us and showed us around the apartment upon our arrival. During the first few days of our stay, we were able to meet Donato’s wife, Alessandra, and son Vincenzo, as well as their friend Rosa.
Next thing we knew, it was Thanksgiving. Time for a special meal! At least for the two of us from the United States. 🙂
On Donato’s recommendation, we walked to Lo Stuzzichino Restaurant in the nearby village of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi to enjoy a non-traditional feast. The owner, Mimmo, showed us to a table, then returned bearing a tray on which was laid a raw, whole fish, “fresh from the sea!” which he enthusiastically suggested for our dinner. Okay. Who are we to argue?
A few days later, one of the shopkeepers invited us to return for a Christmas Street Festival that evening. Lights. Food. Fun.
Donato stopped by frequently during our stay to ensure all was well and surprise us with small tastes of Italy such as fruit, sparkling wine, beer, pastries, bread, a fresh ball of Mozzarella, and milk straight from the dairy. One day he suggested we fire up the barbecue for some pork, Italian style. Heck yeah! We’re in!
(The right piece of wood has to be under here somewhere…)
One of the things we were interested in seeing while we were this close to Naples was Pompeii.
Now, Todd, we know you love your history, but you agreed to keep the intro brief this time, remember?
Okay. Here goes. When we purchased our tickets, they asked if we’d like the 3-Day Pass. What?? Three DAYS? Umm. We were thinking more like three hours. Maybe four. With single-day tickets in hand, off we went… into a really LARGE ruin of a once-thriving civilization.
Pompeii? Now we are talking OLD. Think 800 BC. Really took off in 540 BC with the Greeks! But what’s amazing is the eruption we’re familiar with was in 79 AD. There was a dude who witnessed it and wrote about it! Most of the 15,000 people left in time. Only the unlucky got buried by the 20 feet of ash. The city was untouched through a couple more eruptions and 1500 years! Since 1592, it’s slowly been rediscovered and looted, all 160 acres. But even the art that was left on the walls is stunning. (And accurate. There’s a bordello that Nana just couldn’t bring herself to photograph, this being a G-rated website and all…)
The sun was setting along the Amalfi Coast as we made our way back to the rental, talking about ancient civilizations and volcanoes. And thinking about the world-famous pizza we’d once again missed due to improper timing. Sigh.
A couple of days before our time in Massa Lubrense came to a close, we and our gracious hosts made a plan to get together for another barbecue on the last night of our stay. This time, however, we would treat them to a traditional American-style dinner from the grill. Steak! While Donato and Alessandra were busy with work and appointments, we strolled back into town for supplies.
(past the dogs waiting by the open door)
As luck would have it, it rained that evening. And rained. And rained. But what could be done? It was our last night, and we had large steaks ready for grilling.
(Spoiler alert: that old chair does not survive this round)
Left to Right: Susie, Alessandra, sleepy Vincenzo, Donato, their good friend Rosa, Todd
In the past, we’ve alluded to the fact that we fudge the dates a bit when we publish the posts to try to keep our own historical record accurate. As we wrap up and publish this post dated December 4, it is actually Christmas Eve. We will soon be heading to dinner followed by a late church service, and we are thinking of family and friends with love in our hearts. We wish you all Buon Natale! (Merry Christmas!)
Wait. Does this mean no more apples?
Our Travels 